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03/12/2018

You Can Now Shop Marc Jacobs’s Redux Grunge Collection Online

Escrito a las 09:24

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Jurassic Park was showing at the local cinema, Bill Clinton arrived at the White House, Nirvana played the Cow Palace. It was the cusp of 1993, and in New York, Marc Jacobs had just debuted his revolutionary grunge collection—an array of wild-in-the-streets styles that combined the energy of the Seattle music scene with a dynamism that smelled a lot like teen spirit. For the fashion industry, it was the sartorial equivalent of Igor Stravinsky’s “The Rite of Spring.” That notorious composition, first performed in Paris in 1913, similarly gobsmacked spectators and was trounced by critics, but was later considered a masterpiece.

So it was with the “grunge” collection. You couldn’t really blame the audience for its confusion—after all, they had never had seen anything like it. Jacobs took the clothes beloved by kids all over the world—thrift shop flannel shirts, army pants, tie-dyed tees, granny dresses—and remade them in the finest fabrics, paying homage to their humble origins by reproducing their patterns with exquisite beading and embroideries.

Now, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of this historic and gorgeous rebellion, the company is reissuing 26 of these famous looks, a collection called Redux Grunge that offers these iconic styles in the identical prints and fabrics that shook the world from that controversial catwalk decades ago. And now you can purchase everything online at marcjacobs.com—an unimaginable development back in 1993!—or find them in person at the Redux Grunge pop-up, which opened in New York in November at 655 Madison Ave.

Here are sheer wallpaper-print slip dresses, elongated polos, lacy wrap coats, and shrunken dungaree jackets—and making a most welcome reappearance, the 10-eye boots, designed by Jacobs in collaboration with Doc Martens, back in the day. Also coming to the party are irresistible accessories—dog tag talismans to dangle from a cool neck; beaded chains to encircle a fierce belly, glittering barrettes to glint in artfully undone hair. These boho pieces can be carted in tote bags with the legend “Redux Grunge Collection 1993/2018 Marc Jacobs,” words also that also appear on socks and hats, including a multihued striped ski cap that could have happily graced the blond head of Kurt Cobain.

When these styles first appeared, the whole idea of high-low fashion, of mixing your own vintage finds with luxury goods, simply didn’t exist. Jacobs himself tells it best, describing how at the time, the old-fashioned Hollywood idea of glamour—the glitzy bejeweled Joan Collins version of grown-up elegance—could be replicated by visiting a beauty salon for an updo, and a fancy store for a silky shoulder-padded ensemble. But where could you go for a newer, more radical take on fashion? What shop could help you look like a St. Mark’s Place waif in a Victorian nightie and bedhead hair? And why did this anti-glamour glamour suddenly look so fresh and new?

His genius was his recognition, so early on!—that the unique style of the young girls he hung with, the disheveled élan of his model friends when they showed up at a go-see, could be lifted up and reimagined, and in the end exemplify a whole new notion of what is beautiful.

But as with all revolutionaries, it can take a while for the rest of the universe to catch up. Happily for us, the fashion world now celebrates this spectacular collection, and thanks to the MJ team, we can greet 2019 sporting sheer floor-grazing frocks, with Redux Grunge totes slung over our shoulders, and dance in our Docs ’til our dog tags hit the lights.

Read more at: festkjoler

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